The Tibetan plateau, sometimes referred to as the third pole, is a vast expanse set at an average altitude of 4500 metres. Unrelenting icy winds and unforgiving Himalayan storms. We had to cross it in 6 days.
That didn't happen.
This really is a harsh environment. We arrived at our first bush camp just before nightfall at an altitude on 4450 metres. Minutes after arriving and a thunderstorm ensued. Hail lashed down on us and after in finished, the surrounding mountains had gained a snowy cover they didn't have before.
Overnight, wrapped up in our little tent, we endured another thunderstorm, hail shower and blizzard. On Alex's watch there is a temperature gage and, during the small hours, it had dropped to 2 degrees INSIDE the tent. Who knows what it was outside but when we woke, there was so much condensation on the inside of the tent which shows there must have been a significant temperature difference!
As we started our drive, a blizzard started and a white blanket was draped over the entire countryside. So we sat in our sleeping bags in the truck trying to keep warm.
The next few days all blurred together. We spent a total of 9 days solid driving all day and then camping below zero degrees, normally about 4000 metres above sea level. Every morning we had to scrape ice off the outside of the tent and on a few occasions we had to de-ice the inside of the tent too.
This combined with our tent pole snapping for the fourth time so the gaffa tape is actually the only thing holding the tent up, it made for a long week. The route changed 3 times due to local restrictions and a bridge that had been swept away.
The best bit was the staggering beauty of the landscape and seeing the milky way so frequently that it became odd when it was cloudy and you couldn't see it.
On the sixth night, we decided we were going to stop early for some respite from driving and cook a BBQ in the foothills of a mountain. Brilliant. Unfortunately it was us on cook group so we decided the pull out all the stops; sweet chilli with garlic and ginger marinated beef kebab skewers with the homemade coleslaw, caramelised onions, chargrilled veg and rustic potato and sweet potato wedges with a bonfire to finish.
Even if we do say so ourselves, it was delicious. And it certainly made a change to pasta with some kind of tomato-based sauce that we had become very accustomed to.
More driving and we were nearing some kind of civilisation again, but we drove through that and camped again in a field. As soon as we had parked,we were accosted by locals demanding money and after a quick bribe, we could stay. Still no hotel. Rubbish.
But on the plus side, they did bring their horses over in the morning so we rode off into the sunrise on Tibetan horses!
We did stop in a town called Songpan which was a bit like Disney. It obviously had a lot of history and was once a fairly grand place but now, that has all gone and has been rebuilt. Which is all well and goods but now they have built it with brand new materials and styles so it looks like you are walking through the China section at Epcot (one of the parks at Disney world, Florida) although not quite as realistic. Nevertheless, it was still very nice and good to have a bit of a wander. Best bit? The BLT sand which we had from Emma's Kitchen - with real bacon and everything!
But soon we returned to our norm, more and more driving, nearly 3000 kms across the Tibetan plateau. We eventually made it.
Tick that off the bucket list.
Never again.
P.S. there was a bit of a scandal. Three of the group left, without consulting the trip leaders, and flew just before we left, breaking their visa, to Xi'an where we were to pick them up after the plateau. Rather wonderfully, because they had broken the group visa conditions, they were held under hotel-arrest and even better, because of another enforced route change, we had to miss out Xi'an and go to Chengdu instead. I would have loved to have telephoned them to tell them that.... "Hello, glad you arrived well in Xi'an. Because of a route change, we aren't coming to pick you up. We have had to go nearly 1000 kms away from you so you need to catch up. Also sorry that you had to stay in that hotel for a few extra days. All of this is at your own expense of course. Hope you managed to get out the hotel and see lots of Xi'an. Oh and by the way, if you are late you could be heavily fined and even imprisoned for breach of visa. See you soon..!"
That didn't happen.
This really is a harsh environment. We arrived at our first bush camp just before nightfall at an altitude on 4450 metres. Minutes after arriving and a thunderstorm ensued. Hail lashed down on us and after in finished, the surrounding mountains had gained a snowy cover they didn't have before.
Overnight, wrapped up in our little tent, we endured another thunderstorm, hail shower and blizzard. On Alex's watch there is a temperature gage and, during the small hours, it had dropped to 2 degrees INSIDE the tent. Who knows what it was outside but when we woke, there was so much condensation on the inside of the tent which shows there must have been a significant temperature difference!
As we started our drive, a blizzard started and a white blanket was draped over the entire countryside. So we sat in our sleeping bags in the truck trying to keep warm.
The next few days all blurred together. We spent a total of 9 days solid driving all day and then camping below zero degrees, normally about 4000 metres above sea level. Every morning we had to scrape ice off the outside of the tent and on a few occasions we had to de-ice the inside of the tent too.
This combined with our tent pole snapping for the fourth time so the gaffa tape is actually the only thing holding the tent up, it made for a long week. The route changed 3 times due to local restrictions and a bridge that had been swept away.
The best bit was the staggering beauty of the landscape and seeing the milky way so frequently that it became odd when it was cloudy and you couldn't see it.
On the sixth night, we decided we were going to stop early for some respite from driving and cook a BBQ in the foothills of a mountain. Brilliant. Unfortunately it was us on cook group so we decided the pull out all the stops; sweet chilli with garlic and ginger marinated beef kebab skewers with the homemade coleslaw, caramelised onions, chargrilled veg and rustic potato and sweet potato wedges with a bonfire to finish.
Even if we do say so ourselves, it was delicious. And it certainly made a change to pasta with some kind of tomato-based sauce that we had become very accustomed to.
More driving and we were nearing some kind of civilisation again, but we drove through that and camped again in a field. As soon as we had parked,we were accosted by locals demanding money and after a quick bribe, we could stay. Still no hotel. Rubbish.
But on the plus side, they did bring their horses over in the morning so we rode off into the sunrise on Tibetan horses!
We did stop in a town called Songpan which was a bit like Disney. It obviously had a lot of history and was once a fairly grand place but now, that has all gone and has been rebuilt. Which is all well and goods but now they have built it with brand new materials and styles so it looks like you are walking through the China section at Epcot (one of the parks at Disney world, Florida) although not quite as realistic. Nevertheless, it was still very nice and good to have a bit of a wander. Best bit? The BLT sand which we had from Emma's Kitchen - with real bacon and everything!
But soon we returned to our norm, more and more driving, nearly 3000 kms across the Tibetan plateau. We eventually made it.
Tick that off the bucket list.
Never again.
P.S. there was a bit of a scandal. Three of the group left, without consulting the trip leaders, and flew just before we left, breaking their visa, to Xi'an where we were to pick them up after the plateau. Rather wonderfully, because they had broken the group visa conditions, they were held under hotel-arrest and even better, because of another enforced route change, we had to miss out Xi'an and go to Chengdu instead. I would have loved to have telephoned them to tell them that.... "Hello, glad you arrived well in Xi'an. Because of a route change, we aren't coming to pick you up. We have had to go nearly 1000 kms away from you so you need to catch up. Also sorry that you had to stay in that hotel for a few extra days. All of this is at your own expense of course. Hope you managed to get out the hotel and see lots of Xi'an. Oh and by the way, if you are late you could be heavily fined and even imprisoned for breach of visa. See you soon..!"
Ergh, I don't envy you. But you got some great photos at least! So what's the gossip I'm missing? Who was it?
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