Here was our first experience of real Chinese food. Our personal favourites are crispy chilli beef and chicken and cashew nut. Apparently, these don't actually exist anywhere other than in the UK. On the menu (no lie) was 'cold pig ear', 'fatty goat intestine' and 'hot hair belly'. We avoided all of this and went for a comparatively safe 'shredded meat'. Which we imagine was chicken but you honestly couldn't tell.
Our hotel was exciting, it had a glass ensuite bathroom which was fine for us (living the dream with a twin room rather than a shared one!) but it wasn't great for the singleys sharing!
The next day was a drive day and we were headed Everest bound! But it was a long drive day on fairly rubbish roads and over high passes. We drove to over 5000 metres over a 'hill', seeing spectacular scenery, before descending to 4100 metres to find a bush camp.
Apart from feeling headachy from the rapid altitude ascension, it was a really beautiful spot and we managed to do some star gazing. This rubbish photo doesn't do it justice but we could easily see the milky way and the billions of stars!
Although the quick climb isn't ideal for AMS, it was our only option as the authorities, after delaying our entry into Tibet by 4 days, refused us an extension on the exit date so we had to speed through.
After a cold nights sleep, the next day was one of the most amazing of the trip so far. After a little drive along an awful road, seeing some amazing Himalayan sights along the way, we made it to a little town. From there, the truck could go no further and we had to hike the rest. Our destination, Everest Base Camp.
The altitude was reaching 4800 metres and Alex was starting to feel it. During the hike, vision started wavering a little and there became two Gills at points. This passed and we made it to EBC at 5200 metres. We were feeling spurred on by our success so we ascended a further 50 metres to a view point.
Although the clouds were covering the summit, it was amazing to be standing at the base of the top of the world, in the roof of the world, Tibet. It also seemed strange to think that this base camp was set up in 1924 by the ill-fated George Mallory and Andrew Irvine expedition. The former, who famously replied "Because it's there" after being asked why he wanted to climb it, was last seen 800 metres from the 8848 metre summit and still going strong before a storm came in and they were never seen again. Apparently Mallory's camera is still missing and may finally unveil the secret if they made it to the top nearly 30 years before Hillary and Norgay. It all adds to the mystery and the fascination with what is essentially just a very large piece of rock. But a truly mesmerising one.
On our way back to our bush camp, we did manage to see some amazing views of the summit.
That night, both of us were feeling a little worse for wear and the constant vice grip or sledge hammer to the side of your head meant an early night for us.
We did get some sleep but the altitude had taken its toll on many in the group. With many vomiting, unable to sleep at all, or coming down with fever-like symptoms. This was not helped by the below freezing temperatures and when we woke, we had to scrape the ice off our tent.
As we descended, all of these eased and we thawed out a little. It is a properly harsh environment above 4500 metres, especially when camping, so we were all glad to be heading for a town called Shigatse at a lowly 3500 metres. Here comes the sun...
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